Model Searches

What They Are:

Some "model searches" are nearly complete scams: they claim they will get you "exposure" or even modeling work. But it turns out that, at best, the "modeling work" is for one or two low-paying promotional jobs (typically something like handing out flyers at the mall). They make their money by selling high-priced "portfolios" or by charging highly inflated fees for putting you on their web site. Only rarely is any interest shown in a model by good agencies or people wanting to hire them. But it doesn't matter; the search company has left town and the check cleared.

Despite these unfortunate companies, the legitimate model searches and conventions do something very different. They assemble a group of scouts from model and talent agencies from around the country (and sometimes from around the world) who are given a chance to see you, and talk to you if they are interested in what they see.

Model Searches
Recruiting:

The typical model search will send an advance team to small- and medium-sized cities months before a search event. They may advertise on the radio, on television, in the newspapers or on job-placement sites on the Internet. People who respond to the ad are invited to a free “screening session” (which may be described as something else) at which they are told about an upcoming search event, and some of the attendees invited to go to it – at a price. The more scrupulous search companies make an effort to screen out people who obviously have no hope of being selected by a model or talent agency, but not all are very scrupulous, and a wide net is cast. Sometimes anyone who is willing to pay to attend is allowed to, no matter what they are like.

The search firm invites both model and talent agencies to their events, so the people competing are often not “models” at all. They may be singers or actors who are looking for a chance to be seen by an agency. At most events, the “talent” applicants outnumber the “model” applicants. The total number of attendees needs to be several hundred just for the company to make their expenses, so typically a model search will have 800-1,200 model and talent contestants.

At the Event:

In total there may be 30-50 or more model and talent agents doing the scouting at these events. The model agencies are predominantly “editorial fashion” agencies, although there may be a few commercial print and promotions agencies in attendance as well. Most will be from major market cities: New York, Los Angeles, Miami and perhaps Chicago. There may also be a small number of local agencies in attendance.

Usually a search is a two or three day affair. The first day may be taken up by various types of training and seminars (all offered at additional cost) conducted by industry professionals. They will usually have a photo booth set up too, so attendees can purchase headshots at the event. The second day may involve more seminars and some “competitions”. Each competitor will be given a number on a large badge, which they wear so agents will know who they are.

For “talent” the competitions may be as simple as giving each of the hundred or so contestants a short (15-30 second) opportunity to perform at a microphone (a short a capella solo or monologue) for the talent agents. Then everyone (model and talent alike) take part in the “runway” competition. All the agents (model and talent agencies both) assemble around a runway, and the contestants walk down it at 15 second intervals or so.

There may also be another opportunity for contestants to parade by the tables of the agents, holding pictures of themselves. That’s an opportunity to make in pictures whatever statement you don’t make in person.

At both the runway and talent competitions agents have “callback sheets” that they use to write down the number of people they are interested in seeing later. At the end of each competition these are turned in to the search firm staff.

Following the competitions, and after a break for the staff to compile callback requests, “callbacks” will be announced, either by posting them on a bulletin board or by announcing them to the assembled contestants, by agency and the contestant numbers each agent wants to see. The agents will be at tables in one or more large halls, and those contestants with callbacks let into the halls. They may have to stand in line for a while, depending on the number of people an agency has called back, but they will get an opportunity for a brief personal interview at the callback.

The agent may take measurements, ask about their personal interests and situation, or inquire about their ability to relocate to work with them. If the agent is interested he will ask for the model’s contact information (telephone number). In exceptional cases a model may be offered a contract on the spot, but most often the agent will choose a subset of those he has interviewed to follow up with later.

Some searches also have “open calls” at which agents agree to see anyone who comes to their table. Again, it gives the attendee an opportunity for a brief personal interview with the agent.

The important part of the search occurs after it is over, when agents go home, sort through their notes and decide who to contact and invite into the agency. In almost all cases, the trip to the agency will be at the expense of the model, and she will be told she will have to relocate (at least for a while) if she wants to work with them.

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What about Modeling Schools?

Things you should know!

1. You don’t need to go to modeling school to be a model. In fact most real model agencies would prefer you hadn’t. You will get the experience and training you need through test shoots, experience on the job, through conversations with your agent or personal manager, and, if necessary, from brief classes arranged, usually for free, by your agent.

2. A lot of what modeling schools teach is wrong! It’s a pretty good bet that the instructors are models from years gone by, from places you will never model in, and are types of models you will never be. That’s if you are lucky. A lot of instructors aren’t models at all, and never were. They are just graduates of the schools, imperfectly passing on what they learned. Or worse. They probably don’t really have the skills a professional model needs, and probably don’t know what skills you need.

3. Pictures from modeling schools aren’t what you really need. That’s not always true, of course. Once in a while a school gets lucky, or the manager is really good, and they get real, professional quality pictures done for their models. But the vast majority of the time they get junk. The school counts on the students and their parents not knowing any better, and they are usually correct. So all the money you spend on pictures is wasted. You could get selected by a real agency with simple snapshots just as easily.

4. They don’t tell you what you really need to know. At least, not if it keeps them from selling you classes, or pictures, or attendance at expensive conventions that they say you should attend. They are a business. They make their money by taking it from you, not making it for you. So you can count on them not to tell you what keeps them from making money. What are some of those things?

a. There isn’t much modeling work where you live.

b. You can’t be a model in a big city unless you live in the big city.

c. Unless you are a skinny, long-legged 5’10” 16 year old girl, you are going to have to pay all the expenses of relocating to where there really is modeling work. And with no guarantees of ever actually getting any.

d. Unless you are that same 5’10” girl, no model agency in any major market city is going to make you an offer to front expenses to work with them. Even then they still might not.

e. People who hire models, and model agencies, don’t care that you’ve been to modeling school.

f. You don’t need to know how to walk on a runway. OK, maybe if you are that tall skinny 16-year old you do, but the agency will teach you that in an hour. Nobody else needs to learn the runway walk. That’s not the kind of modeling they will do.

g. A photographer can’t take good portfolio pictures of ten people in a day.

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Theatrical Performers needs

Theatrical castings require a headshot, 8”x10” glossy and done in the style used in the theatrical market. (Note: color headshots are used in California and New York City. In other markets, either Black and White or color may be used. Check with a talent agency in your area for guidance.

A lot of them will be needed for submissions to castings, so we strongly recommend that they be mass printed (laser or offset) rather than original photographic prints. We do not recommend you print your own headshots on a computer - it simply sends a message to the casting director that you are not professional enough to get good pictures printed. It is not uncommon for performers to have more than one headshot with different looks, so that a choice most appropriate to an upcoming casting can be submitted.

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Commercial Print Model Marketing

The bare minimum needed to market you is a headshot similar to those used by theatrical performers. If all you have is one really great picture, that may be what you use at the beginning of your career. (Note: new fashion models sometimes start with no more than simple Polaroids taken by their agency. But they need to change that as rapidly as possible. The fashion clients are heavily influenced by pictures.

If you are going to be a model looking for fashion or commercial print work, you should have a printed composite card that can be sent to potential clients. Typically “comps” are 5 ½ x 8 ½ inches, printed on card stock, and double sided. They normally contain a good head shot on one side, three or four other pictures on the reverse, and your stats and agency contact data. Most agencies prefer pictures to be mostly color, but will accept good-quality B&W comps. The agency will probably need at least 50 copies of your comp card in their files. Normally comp cards are updated as you get better pictures or tear sheets that can be included on them, so it often isn’t necessary to print more than 100-150.

If you already have an acceptable comp card it will help greatly for a commercial agency to immediately market you. Fashion agencies and most small market agencies will require you to have a card produced under their guidance. If you do not have a card, but have good quality pictures of the right style, the agency can assist you in finding printers who can produce quality comps at reasonable prices in only a few days.

A “portfolio” or “book” is vital for a fashion model, although less necessary for commercial models. In the larger markets pictures should be 9”x12” or tearsheets from published work. In smaller markets 8x10 may be acceptable, but you should check with local agencies to be sure. Some agencies have adopted other sizes for "walkaround" books, while keeping the "main book(s) at 9x12. For commercial models it is helpful if your comp (or portfolio) contains shots of you portraying some of the “types” that get commercial castings, and that are appropriate to your look. If you can look like a doctor, executive, “young mom”, “active retiree”, “character”, or any other frequently requested “type” you should ensure that you have pictures showing you in clothes and a setting, and with the “look” or attitude appropriate to that type. Also if you are planning on being a “body” or parts model your comp should contain a picture of your specialty as well. Some models with an especially strong specialty may choose to have a second comp card printed which focuses on that specialty.

Your agency should advise you on the contents of your comp and portfolio, but a large market commercial agency will often simply accept one (if it is well done) from new models.

ONLINE solutions also exist. ModelVanity.com offers this service free of charge. Anyone interested can look at your portfolio any time.

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